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Phish
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Front Brakes:
1. Examine pads for wear, and replace if necessary. Make sure new pads have copper-grease on the backs of the pads ( NOT the friction side) and that any anti-squeal shims are in place.
2. Make sure that discs are clean and not cracked or excessively worn. Replace if necessary
3. Make sure that the brake caliper is clean, pistons are free, and any slide-bolts on single piston calipers are clean and not seized.
(Drum) Rear Brakes:
1 Remove drums and wash out brake-dust from inside of drum, and also wash the shoes, brake cylinder, return springs, brake-backplate
2. Check shoes for wear, replace if necessary. If replacement is not needed, gently remove the glazed surface from the shoes with a some abrasive paper, and rough-up the inside surface of the brake drum.
3. Put a very small amount of copper grease on the pivot-points of the shoes, NOT on the friction surface. Small amounts of copper-grease on handbrake mechanism pivot points.
(Disc) Rear Brakes:
1. Refer to workshop manual. Too many variances.
IF YOU ARE NOT CONFIDENT IN BRAKE-SERVICING, ENTRUST ALL OF THIS TO AN EXPERT. DO NOT TAKE CHANCES. |
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"Call me Dave"
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Depends on which end, which type of brake.
Get a free Brake check at KwipFit. They will tell you if the pads are worn, they will also tell you you must have discs and pads replaced together.This is not true, but new pads do need to be bedded in to an old disc, 5 crah stops from 70 usually does the trick. Get a quote from KwipFit, but Dont let them do the work, get one of the lads from work to do it on the weekend , buy the Haynes manual and Do it yourself . A frequent cause of good brakes squealing is glazing from high speed driving on the Motorway when you may not use the brakes for 50 miles and then only gently , equally always using the brakes gently will lead to glazing which also dramatically increases stopping distances.
If the Pads are good Cooper slip on the backplates and radiusing the corners of the pads slightly will sometimes help as will ensuring the pads are free to move sideways in the caliper, take off the paint with a file if nescessary.
Doing a rapid stop every journey is a good way to keep your brakes in first rate order and braking hard when reversing once in a while will stop the pads sticking in the caliper.
Drum brakes squeal when full of dust.
Drum brakes also squeal if the leading edges of the shoes have not been radiused, most decent brake shoes are now radiused but some products from the peoples republic of Noddyland are not, these can be recognised by their crap appearance and the fact they spell Feroodo wrong. |
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David L
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Squealing brakes can be a whole lot of things. First off, have they been replaced in the last year or so? If not they could be just worn out and either down to the wear indicator or into the backing plate. If they are newre brakes and they are not worn out, the most likely cause is glazed rotors caused by over heating them. Other causes are lack of grease on the sliders and even dust. If you live in an area that is more dusty then the big city (like living on a dirt road) dust is very condusive to braek squeal. If you don't know or don't have someone who can look at it then you really should get a mechanic to look at them for you. |
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jason H
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your brakes squeel becouse:-
a- your discs and pads are worn
b- you havent been cleeaned or deglased in a while
c- you have a seased caliper or brakes
or d- they have over heated.
there are other unlikely possabilaties such as servo gone but best advise is to take the car to your local(trustworthy) garage. |
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Johnny
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If you don't know go to a certified auto tech never cheap out on the brakes the exhast maybe but not your brakes |
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martin r
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they need stripping down and cleaned and some parts greased |
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Ò‰FuzzyÒ‰ - Ò‰No-NosedÒ‰ - Ò‰ChimpÒ‰
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If they are not worn down, it is usually the case that the pads have glazed over and are very shiney. This usually happens to brakepads made of harder wearing material. De-glazing usually helps for a few miles, but it is better to get softer pads, which while may wear out quicker, are far less prone to glazing. |
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mike L
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change the pads at least and take a look to see if any thing is bent touching them first. while your at it look at the rotors. the wear tab is letting you know its time for new pads more than likely |
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Emelia F
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Check that the pads/shoes don't need changing. That's the usual reason for squeally brakes in my experience. |
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Lone Wolf
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Buy Copper grease and smear a fine film on the BACK of each pad, also lightly rub the braking surface of each pad with emery paper |
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David T
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Clean them.
Get an aerosol of brake cleaner. Take the wheel off and spray it in the brake calipers.
DON'T USE GREASE WHAT EVER YOU DO.
IT WILL RUIN YOUR BRAKES. |
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Mike
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go to a meckanic |
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Bealzebub
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Get a new anti-squel spring put in. Literally costs pennies and is easy to do. |
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c.j.davies
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Get it checked, take it to a garage |
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NOT TELLING YOU LOL
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get new brakes fitted |
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Barking mad
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Brake pads are worn, causing the dust to grate and squeal, like a pig eh. |
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~ steph j ~ The Shepherdess
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You may need new brake pads. |
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want_know
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take your tire out and get brake cleaner in any auto motive it cost around $3 spray all around the rotor thats the circle thing behind the tire. and thats all. |
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p2of9
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get new brakes |
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Caz T
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get new brake pads and maybe discs. |
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cherdwum4
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get your brakes fixed it usually means theres a problem |
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A True Gentleman
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Apply lots of grease to them. |
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crispy
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get rid of the pig under your bonnet |
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